Monday, July 23, 1973
On our last full day in Haines, we went shopping in the morning. My father bought a foot-tall sticker of a totem pole to put on the trailer, to add to one of a Dall sheep that he’d apparently bought earlier in the trip.
In the afternoon, we took the ferry to Skagway. The trip takes an hour, according to the Alaska Marine Highway website, and at the time, the ferry and the railroad were the only way you could get to Skagway, back in the days before the highway to Whitehorse was built and there were so many, many cruise ships the way there is now. But it was still two more ways than you could get to Skagway back in True Gold‘s heroine Karin’s day. During the Klondike gold rush, the only way you could get to either Skagway or Dyea was by boat, and not the clean modern ferries that make the run today, either.
Karin arrived in Dyea, which is just across the head of Lynn Canal from Skaguay, as it was spelled back then for a Tlingit word meaning home of the north wind, in August of 1897. She spent over two months there before heading north over the famed and snowcovered Chilkoot Pass, where she spent a long cold winter on Lake Bennett with several thousand other people, building boats and waiting for the ice to break up on the long chain of lakes and rivers feeding into the great Yukon River leading to Dawson City and the Klondike.
We, on the other hand, spent our afternoon poking around the town, population 900 at the time, visiting a museum, and seeing the infamous con man and city boss Soapy Smith’s grave. The Klondike National Historic Park, another unit of which is in Seattle, did not exist yet in 1973. We did some more shopping, too. My mother bought a set of cufflinks, and I bought my last souvenir of the trip, another set of miniature bone china Dall sheep to add to my collection:
Which I promptly dropped on the seat belt buckle in the Chrysler’s back seat when we got back to Haines. Which broke the hind leg off of the papa sheep.